An Indian safari is a study in patience and intuition, says Richard MacKichan.
The city of Lucknow is known for its artisans, including kebab makers, metalsmiths, and floral artists.
A visit to the perfumers, such as Izharson, reveals a wide range of scents, from local biryanis to petrichor.
As evocative as it was wafting from a glass decanter, it was no match for a lungful of the real thing I got arriving at Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary at the tail end of a shower the following day.
Author's summary: Discovering India's wildlife and artisans.